Fuzzy - Did you read his short column? I can't put it any better, but if I had to I'd say the proper vs. improper wine/food combination is similar to putting salt on something instead of black pepper. That's a bit dramatic but it is more similar to salting something and not salting it (chose a spice). Some things work better than others. Tim's column explains why that is so, similar to McGee's thoughts on cooking.
Certainly one of the MAJOR keys is acidity - true for wine and food. Acidity make your mouth rinse with salivia to embrace the next bite, acids in wine do similarly. Wines vary in their acid levels and using that to pair is a big help.
OF COURSE THIS NECESSITATES TASTING, TASTING, TASTING!!