Cookaholics Bulletin Board

I love wings. In the last couple of weeks, I've made three variations:

1. The wings from Ferran Adria Family Cookbook (Meal 11, my "report" is here)
2. Buffalo Wings from Cooks Illustrated (free recipe for you). This is one of my favorite "hot wings" in the winter. In the summer, I tend to prefer grilled wings.
3. A concoction involving SV some wings in some olive oil @ 60C/140F for 24 hours, freezing, tossing in a good amount of cornstarch+ cayenne+salt+pepper and deep frying (from frozen) at around 220C/430F until very nicely brown. Served with a little Franks, just to rub them in. This was a very big hit in my house; very moist and tender, and very crispy. The freeze lets you fry them for the outside without overcooking. I'm going to experiment with this recipe some. I'd love to debone the wings, but so far haven't go the knack yet. After the SV they are *very* delicate. Still, this is one of my favorite crispy wing styles yet.

Of course, I've done many other preparations in the past, but thought I'd start with recent adventures.

Love to hear other peoples ongoing wing cookery!

#3 sounds a little bit like The Ultimate Extra-Crispy Double Fried Confit Buffalo Wings from The Food Lab.

I don't do a lot of deep frying, but I think I am going to make an exception soon to break in my big LC pot.

Thanks, Jim! I hadn't seen that; it is indeed basically a SV version of that. SV allows one to not overcook, which I suspect their stove-top method tends to do (and hence why the mention it is a little drier). I think the cooking from frozen probably helps though; it should allow more cooking on the outside without cooking the inside. I say should because I haven't tried not freezing. I also recommend the addition of starch, as it makes the outside very nice. I based my on a drive-by mention on eGullet, which was referencing El Bulli, but nice to see Serious Eats in the same vein. I also like the more-like-dipping serving; not only is it neater, but your wings stay crisp.

It should be mentioned that frying wings at very high temps from frozen makes for a very large rise in oil level; you will need to have the oil lower then you might normally to prevent a boil over.

Gotta recommend the Buffalo Chicken Meatballs from The Meatloaf Cookbook. A tad bit healthier, and definitely neater. I make a different blue cheese sauce than they call for, and also dd lots of extra celery.

Amy

So what oil are you using for deep frying at that temperature? I have two oils on hand for deep frying: canola ($12 for 2 liters) and processed coconut oil ($5.50 for 2 liters). But the smoke point on both of those are very close to your specified 420F depending on how the oil is processed.

I suppose I could fry the SV wings at lower temperature, maybe the 375F area, which is close to what I do for 2nd fry on french fries, and hope for the best. Peanut oil is occasionally available but "mas mahal" (aka very dear) so if the 420F is requisite, I would have to hunt some of that down.

Cook while frozen, eh? That's interesting. They thaw out in the deep fryer without fail?

I usually use corn oil, cause its cheap. Sometimes canola. You do, indeed, run close to the smoke point; careful monitoring is required. I'd expect 400 would do. 375 will work, I'm sure, especially if you can control the drop (lots of heat, lots of oil, small batches, heavy pan). It isn't make or break, just degrees

Amy, I'll have to try that out. Since I'm not fond of meatloaf at all, I'm unlikely to buy the book, but I'll bet some rooting around will cough up that recipe.

Going sideways but still on topic, here is a business analysis of Buffalo Wild Wings : Bar & Grill- [url]http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-investor/investment-ideas/features/vox/a-wing-joint-that-satisfies-an-investors-appetite-for-growth/article2337137/[/url]
Hard to believe they have 800+ sites

I have been using a baked wing recipe that we all like. I fry about once every few years. A friend who lives in another part of Switzerland has a hot sauce store in the next town and she bought me some wing sauce. One is Stubbs and the other I didn't recognize. I would like that meatball recipe too as even the baked wings are not crazy healthy.

Mary

Thanks Paul. I will load up the oil and limit the amount of wings added each time so it doesn't drop too much temperature wise. I want to mention, in a similar sideways manner, that we really like french fries done in coconut oil. Much less greasy to my palate. I will give the wings a try and push the coconut oil up to around 400F or so.

Let us know how it works out! For the freezing part: Typically the instructions will say "lightly frozen", and some people seem to go with just "chilled". I've only been using the middle joint for these experiments, which are less thick, and I froze relatively solid and they thawed no problem. The 'drumette' might be a little more finicky, but realistically they are still very small so I doubt it. In a lot of 'modernist' style recipes they might actually be dipped in liquid nitrogen, but that's not something I've been sourcing....